There are people who argue that fashion weeks have gotten too exclusive (remember the Row’s no-photo fiasco?), and then there are people who argue that they aren’t exclusive enough (see: influencers in the front row). But while I’m not quite sure where I stand on that debate, one thing I know for certain is that none of those people have been to Copenhagen Fashion Week.
Copenhagen Fashion Week has quietly become a favorite amongst fashion editors because it’s all about ease—and great clothes. With no major fashion houses based in the capital of Denmark, the week’s focus is on emerging designers. You don’t get stuck in traffic because you’re too busy cruising on a bike down streets lined in pastel-colored town houses. Of course there’s street style, but instead of peacocking, guests lean into the quirky, effortless Scandi girl aesthetic. Many presentations and shows offer wine as you wait, or greet you with a cardamom bun on a scalloped napkin at your seat. And while it’s already hard to feel jaded when you’re well-fed, it helps to know that every designer showing has met a set of sustainability requirements to help better the planet.
This season was full of particularly notable events. Saks Potts kicked off the week with a 10th anniversary celebration that felt sort of like a wedding, complete with a cake decorated with a childhood photo of the designers, lifelong friends Cathrine Saks and Barbara Potts. Caro Editions, the brand behind those viral flower hair clips, hosted its first show with a tree-lined catwalk behind the brand’s store. London-based Sinead O’Dwyer earned a guest spot on the schedule after winning the Zalando Visionary Award. Nicklas Skovgaard, whose It girl fan base has been quietly growing, opted for an ’80s-inspired presentation with dancing models in shoulder pads. And although Cecilie Bahnsen hasn’t shown in her hometown for years, she still managed to host an event for her latest Asics collaboration that reminded everyone why her dainty peplum tops are eye candy—and a standing Copenhagen style cornerstone.
Below, five trend and style observations from the week.
Rugby shirts are absolutely happening
Marimekko SS25
Stem SS25
Two years ago, my coworkers and I here at Bazaar realized there was a prep resurgence in our midst, and I did a deep dive on how the rugby shirt became a cool-kid staple. While the look has always been a thing, it feels like it has now truly made its mainstream resurgence. In Copenhagen, it was everywhere.
At OpéraSport, models wore rugbys cinched around their waists with thin black floral belts (while making the pantsless look feel believable). Weaver and textile designer Sarah Brunnhuber of Stem created her own version with fringed tassels around the collar and sleeve; I noted five different fashion editors clocking the top as a must-have. At Marimekko, the preppy staple was supersized into a dress. At Baum und Pferdgarten, models wore theirs with their collars popped, layered over glitzy sequin skirts. Worn with the signature Danish ease, the shirt feels less stuffy and more cool.
Guest in Residence Striped Cashmere Rugby
Siedrés Ole Polo Sweater in Orange
Now 30% Off
Rowing Blazers Zig Zag Rugby
The ’80s are replacing Y2K as the retro decade of choice
Caro Editions SS25
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Lately, every season has been dominated by what feels like a never-ending obsession with the 2000s. But in Copenhagen, designers made the case for looking to the ’80s instead. Nicklas Skovgaard’s presentation featured models dancing to classic ’80s beats in puffed silhouettes, sporty maillots, and extra-big hair. At Caro Editions, there were zebra pantsuits with large shoulders and chunky belts. But perhaps most notably, the era’s influence was seen at the Royal Danish Academy and Scandinavian Academy of Fashion Design, where student designers sent their schoolwork down the runway. The large draped silhouettes and funky checkered patterns made it clear the youth of today have a different decade on their mind.
Jacquemus Caruso Zebra Long Belted Coat
Diotima Oversize Blazer
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Christopher John Rogers Plaid Pleated Balloon Trousers
The most fun looks are a little bit off
A. Roege Hove SS25
Bonnetje SS25
Part of the appeal of the way the Danes dress is that it’s done with a sense of ease and wonder that reminds me of how little kids pick out the clothes they love. It’s not that the aesthetic is childlike, exactly—it’s that nobody is worrying too much about fashion rules.
On the runways, plenty of pieces were styled in ways they often aren’t. At Mark Kenly Domino Tan, shirts were worn backward, with buttons and collars falling down the back. At the Garment, draped flowing dresses were worn over pants. At newcomer Bonnetje’s presentation, shirts were reworked into pants and pants were reworked into shirts. At A. Roege Hove, models buttoned their cardigans only partway, exposing belly buttons and midriffs, with turtleneck collars paired with just panties. They all reminded me of how fun fashion can be when it’s approached with few constraints or preconceived notions about what is right and what isn’t.
Meryll Rogge Deconstructed Stripe Asymmetric Cotton Button-Up Shirt
Vaquera Knotted Fine-Ribbed T-Shirt
Loewe Button-Front Shirtdress With Turned-Up Sleeves
Sheer can be just as ethereal as it is sexy
Remain SS25
Baum und Pferdgarten SS25
Naked dresses and naked dressing are very much of the moment. But in Copenhagen, the aesthetic was given a more angelic, diaphanous vibe that makes it feel more approachable. At Nicklas Skovgaard, models layered bubble skirts over long lace skirts to add some coverage and dimension to the look. At Joao Maraschin, underwear peeked out of long lace textured skirts, with boxy bomber jackets evening out the vibe. At Remain, multiple transparent pieces were worn on top of one another, layered to create a look that was sheer without being too sheer. At Baum und Pferdgarten, brown lace skirts felt scholarly when styled with oversize sweaters with pushed-up sleeves. Leave it to Copenhagen to take an aesthetic most would consider off limits and make it seem easy and worth wanting to give a whirl.
Christopher Esber Veiled Ruched One-Shoulder Mesh Top
Bode Sheer Juana Trousers
Maison Margiela Mixed Media Miniskirt Layered Shorts
Capri pants don’t have to be controversial
Herskind SS25
Gestuz SS25
A couple of years ago, just the mention of low-rise jeans would elicit a gasp. Then it was skinny jeans. And now it’s capri pants stressing everyone out. They’re certainly happening on the streets, but people are intimidated about how to make the look click.
On the Copenhagen runways, though, capris were worn with such effortlessness that it was hard to remember they’re often considered contentious. At Gestuz, a rock band played for guests as groupies walked out with sheer button-downs tucked into denim pedal pushers. At Herskind, they were the perfect counterpart to more voluminous structured tops. A. Roege Hove’s ribbed iteration in the brand’s signature textured fabric made the silhouette look not just chic but also comfortable. Watching them all walk down the runway, I couldn’t help but wonder—very much like fashion’s favorite capri enthusiast, Carrie Bradshaw—why I’d ever doubted the style.
Sandy Liang Solow Capri Pants
Mango Piccola Belted Capri Pants
Donni. The Rib Pedal Pusher in Gray
Tara Gonzalez is the Senior Fashion Editor at Harper’s Bazaar. Previously, she was the style writer at InStyle, founding commerce editor at Glamour, and fashion editor at Coveteur.
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